Naw, it wasn't nag champa... but I haven't been in a room this incense-filled since I was at university (the first time around). Each of these coils is made of incense. The red card hanging in the center of each is enscribed with a wish or prayer written by one of the visitors to the Man Mo Temple in Hong Kong. The incense coil burns as a continuous wishing, sending smoke skyward. The largest coils were easily a meter in diameter at the widest point, and would take up to a week to burn down completely.
The temple pays tribute to the gods of literature and war -- a fitting combination says this former student of literary criticism. In addition to the coils, there are shrines to each deity and visitors bring fruit and flowers to leave for them. Incense sticks are also for sale in the shrine.
When leaving the temple, those who have made prayers beat a large drum as if to say to the gods: I'm done now, did you get all that?!
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